Take a look at our website for options:
https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/search?type=product&q=toothpaste
If you are really struggling to brush your pet's teeth there are a few other products on the market to help:
https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/search?type=product&q=dental
When to see a Vet:
The vet will assess your pet's dental health and may recommend a dental under general anaesthetic to allow full assessment and treatment as appropriate. It's important these procedures are done under general anaesthetic as full assessment and correct scaling and polishing cannot be performed in conscious pets.
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
Why might you need a muzzle?
A muzzle doesn’t mean a dog is aggressive, usually (especially in a veterinary setting) it’s quite the opposite. We really need to move away from this as a stigma. Many people are against the use of muzzles in daily life, or in the vets because they feel it is an accusation of their dog being aggressive or posing a danger. Yes, it is to protect others but also to protect the dog that is wearing the muzzle too!
Baskets are Best…
For most dogs, in most scenarios, basket muzzles are considered better than soft muzzles. This is because of how they must be fitted to be effective.
Learning to Accept a Muzzle
To teach your dog to accept a muzzle time must be taken to train them properly. All you need are small treats (or paste) and a muzzle! Take a look at the bottom of this blog for recommendations.
What you need…
Muzzles
We have a few different muzzles on the website, take a look and see what you think would suit your dog best: https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/search?type=product&q=muzzle
Treats!
High value but small treats are the best treats for any training. These are our favourites, they are seriously tasty but only small, meaning you don’t have to wait for your dog to finish chewing and they aren’t going to add too many calories to their diet! https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/search?type=product&q=Lamb+salmon+training+treats
Other resources
Take a look at this great video from The Dogs Trust, packed with even more information on how to muzzle train your dog.
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
]]>So how can you tell if your pet is scared of fireworks?
Dog may show much more obvious signs than other animals, such as becoming panicked and erratic. They may try to run away from the situation which can often do more harm than good. Simple signs from any animal are when they try to hide, become more subdued or show a change in their normal habits and behaviour.
What can you do to help?
There’s a number of things you can do to help your pet with their fear of fireworks, it’s important to implement most of these well before you anticipate fireworks!
If you are still having problems the next step is to visit your vet. They can prescribe medication to help your pet, however this is rarely required.
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
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Castration is the process of removing the testes (testicles) in a male, this can prevent a number of health issues and, of course, unwanted pregnancies! It is a relatively simple procedure compared to spaying a female as it doesn’t require surgery within the abdominal cavity and so is less painful.
Which species do we routinely castrate?
There are a number of benefits to castration including:
What are the risks of spaying?
*It can be useful to give calming products shortly before and in the recovery period after surgery to help keep dogs calm. We have a range of products, our favourite being Wendals Dog Calmer, available in two different sizes, handy for short recovery periods or longer-term use: https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/products/wendals-dog-calmer?_pos=2&_sid=206e6e3dd&_ss=r
It is important to speak to your vet or veterinary nurse about spaying your pet and also the correct timing, as this varies between species and individuals. In larger breed dogs it is recommended to delay castration to allow better bone development.
New studies have found a crucial link between dog behaviour and castration. They found that dogs that were anxious prior to castration, became more anxious after surgery. So why is this important?
The reason behind this worsening in anxiety is due to the removal of the testosterone (produced by the testicles). This hormone not only increases muscle mass and bone density, but also helps to improve self confidence and reduce fearfulness. In a dog that was well socialised and is naturally confident in most situations, this reduction in testosterone is likely to have little effect. However, if a dog was already of a nervous disposition, this will only worsen, as the hormone letting him know he’s ok, has gone.
This is important as a dog that feels more vulnerable is later likely to become ‘nervous aggressive’, meaning in difficult situations (such as vet visits) if something worries the dog, he is more likely to resort to snapping or biting.
Before castration is considered it is important to fully assess how confident the dog is in a range of situations. He should be easy to read and confident before undergoing the procedure. If he isn’t, it’s important to delay the procedure and spend some more time socialising him and building up his confidence in a range of environments.
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
Veterinary Surgeon
]]>This awareness day was created to recognise the benefits of spaying for our pets and also the risks of not doing so. Our rabbit savvy vet, Ellie Phipps, has done a great write up on the benefits and risks of spaying and also has some photos of what happens when your rabbit goes to the vets to be spayed. Here’s what she had to say:
To spay an animal is to remove the reproductive organs from a female, meaning they can no longer breed. This may involve removal of the ovaries and uterus (ovariohysterectomy) or just the ovaries (ovariectomy) depending on the species and individual patient.
So which species do we routinely spay?
This is a routine procedure in most vet practices, some do less work with small animals than others so it’s always worth checking where their experience lies.
There’s a number of benefits to spaying your pets, these include:
What are the risks of spaying?
*It can be useful to give calming products shortly before and in the recovery period after surgery to help keep dogs calm. We have a range of products, our favourite being Wendals Dog Calmer, available in two different sizes, handy for short recovery periods or longer term use: https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/products/wendals-dog-calmer?_pos=2&_sid=206e6e3dd&_ss=r
It is important to speak to your vet or veterinary nurse about spaying for your pet and also the correct timing, as this varies between species and individuals. Dogs must be done either before or between seasons (roughly every 6 months) to prevent further risks during and after surgery.
The photos below show Rolo the rabbit being spayed, the procedure itself is relatively similar in all species!
Rolo, at home on the morning of her spay procedure. With rabbits (unlike dogs and cats) it’s important to not starve them. You can continue offering them their normal food right up until their admit and it’s important to take a little packed lunch of all their normal and favourite food too. This helps to reduce the risk of gut stasis (rabbits only).
Rolo has had her anaesthetic injections and a treatment of gut stimulant. An intravenous cannula has been placed into an ear vein and she is ready to be prepared for surgery.
An airway device is uses to provide additional oxygen and keep her airways open during the procedure. Monitoring equipment is attached to monitor her breathing and heart.
Her belly is clipped to prevent hair from contaminating the surgical site.
Surgical scrub is used to sterilise her belly. Monitoring equipment can be seen in the background.
An incision is made into the skin, connective tissue and the muscle to reach her ovaries and uterus, which are then removed.
With ovaries and uterus removed, the muscle, connective tissue and skin are stitched up. Absorbable sutures are used meaning all of the stitches are internal and they break down by themselves.
A reversal injection is given allowing Rolo to wake up. The airway device is removed once she begins to wake up.
More gut stimulant is given (rabbits only) before going home and Rolo goes home with pain relief. She will come back in for a recheck in a few days unless her owner has any concerns before then.
Rolo, reunited with her friend Flump after her spay surgery!
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
Veterinary Surgeon
]]>Food
A number of festive treats can be toxic to pets so it’s important to keep them out of reach and if you pet does indulge themselves on any by accident, contact your vet. These include:
Also take care when feeding any leftovers, if your pet isn’t used to eating those foods, don’t allow them to have too much as it can cause gastrointestinal issues and always take care with bones, as these can splinter.
Decorations
Its great to have plenty of festive decorations up at Christmas, but even these can cause unexpected problems for your pets. Take care with any items that may be chewed or eaten. Electric cables can look like great fun to your pet but obviously if chewed can give an unpleasant shock! Likewise tinsel and smaller items accidentally ingested may later cause an obstruction.
Take care with festive plants and berries as many of these are toxic if eaten. Ensure those Christmas trees are bunny proof if you have house-buns!
Change in Routine
At Christmas routine tends to go out of the window! There may be more people in the house than normal, other pets visiting, children and lots of noise. It’s important to consider this isn’t normal for your pet. Allow them space to hide or get away from the buzz and make sure children especially respect their space.
Calmers can be handy to use over the Christmas period to help take the edge off and allow them to chill out. Take a look at our range of calming products if needed to help your pet over the festive season:
https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/collections/supplements-1
Treating your Pet this Christmas
It’s great to spoil your pet rotten with new toys and treats, but always be mindful to check toys for any damage and either repair or dispose of them as appropriate if they are damaged.
We have a large selection of Christmas toys on the website:
https://dukeandcopetsupplies.com/collections/christmas-at-duke-co
And most of all, have a lovely Christmas!
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
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Emergencies
So what would vets consider and emergency? Every vet’s practice has to triage their patients and since covid most practices are currently very stretched. But some conditions require immediate attention such as those on the list below:
There are other important symptoms that also shouldn’t be ignored. They may not be an emergency but may be symptoms of a serious condition:
Neither of these lists is exhaustive and often it is best to get your pet checked if you have any concerns about their health.
Ellie Phipps BVSc MRCVS
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Featured on This Morning & Dragons Den, the easy-to-use scoop makes it easier and cleaner than ever before pick up poop!
The HandiScoop comes in a short size and long size. If you're fairly active and don't have problems bending or reaching, the short scoop is ideal for taking on long walks. If you have limited mobility or struggle bending, the long HandiScoop is ideal for a more comfortable reach and is great for talking on short strolls.
TOP TIP: Pre-load your scoop before the walk with 2-3 bags so you are always ready!
The HandiScoop works great on most surfaces including gravel, long grass, sand and patios. When picking up on harder surfaces, a three loaded bag will protect the jaws for hygiene reasons and can be used in conjunction with a 2-gallon bin lined bucket if picking up a lot of dog litter. As many as 100 poops could be snaffled up by just using one scoop bag! On the last pick up, simply seal the bag and dispose of with the rest of the bucket bin liner of poop.
TOP TIP: Not just for picking up after dogs, the HandiScoop is also ideal for cleaning out cat litter.
The HandiBags are a large, biodegradable bag designed for use with the HandiScoop as they measure 23cm x 27cm. However, any large bags can be used as long as the opening of the jaws is not restricted. A bag is definitely recommended to be used on the scoop to ensure it is always clean and ready to use. You can also pick up multiple times using one bag if you are picking up multiple poops in the garden and disposing of in a bin.
You can buy both variations of the HandiScoop as well as the HandiBags.
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A clean dog is a happy and healthy dog. Depending on your pup’s coat type, breed and level of activity, you may need to wash your dog more than others; however, it is generally agreed that a pH balanced shampoo is best for dogs, as it is suitable for sensitive skin and providing a gleaming effect on your dog’s fur.
Click here for our full range of bathing and grooming products.
If you struggle to wash your dog, a no-rinse shampoo or pet wipes are ideal for providing waterless but thorough cleaning, making them also suitable for whilst on the go. For pups with longer coats, you could use a bath and groom brush to evenly distribute and massage the shampoo into your dog's fur, by filling the brush with your shampoo choice.
]]>Ferrets are cute and sociable pets who have high amounts of energy, which can mean they are a big responsibility. However, they are very intelligent and can be trained, but it is best to introduce them to a family with older children, as smaller children could accidentally injure them, leading to the ferret biting. If you’re buying your first ferret, our handy advice guide can help you to provide the best home for your ferret, whilst making sure they’re happy and healthy.
Sleeping
Your ferrets will sleep in a dark enclosure such as a wooden hut, where they can make a nest for sleeping. Towels and similar fabrics make good bedding but will need to be washed frequently, and the cage itself will need regular scrubbing.
Eating
Ferrets are naturally very picky eaters and require a carnivorous diet. However, ferrets will not eat fish or fish-based products, with some ferrets choosing to starve rather than eat it. Ferrets also have a high metabolism, which requires them to have a large amount of animal fat in their diet and avoid foods with high vegetable or grain matter which can cause your ferret to become unwell. When giving your ferret meat, make sure it is properly thawed. Like other pets, ferrets need a fresh supply of water.
Living
Ferret cages are usually designed with two levels and a place to hang a cosy hammock. Your ferret needs several litter boxes: one for the cage and several for playtime outside the cage. The best litters to use are shredded paper and newspaper-based cat litters. Heavy ceramic or lock-on bowls are good dishes for ferrets. Your ferret may tip over the water bowl, however, so supply a sipper bottle as well, which can fasten onto the side of their cage.
Travelling
From time to time, your ferret will need to visit the vet’s office. To transport your ferret safely, you’ll need a pet carrier with gaps small enough that your pet can’t worm his way through them. A leash and H-harness will also be useful, so you can walk your ferret and keep it active.
Cleaning
Ferrets are naturally clean animals and need a bowl of water in order to wash their faces in the same fashion as a cat. Baths should be kept to a minimum, as regular bathing strips the natural oils off their fur and they get a lot smellier with dry skin. If your ferret becomes dirty, it’s best to just give them a wipe with a soap-free baby wipe or just a warm damp towel. You can also let them swim around in some water.
When washing your ferret, use very gentle shampoos which don’t strip all the oils from their skin. Ferrets have sensitive eyes and ears, so be extra careful to stay clear of the face when you do need to bathe them. Ferret ears do get quite waxy, so cleaning on a regular basis with a gentle pet-friendly ear cleaner with some cotton wool is recommended. Like other small animals, regular nail clipping is required; a small pair of human nail clippers is a perfect size. Always read instructions first on how to clip your ferret's claws, if you're still not confident on doing it yourself, your local vet or grooming parlour can.
Playing
Ferrets love to play and will bounce back and forth to show they are having a great time and some even wag their tails. Like humans, they even make small giggling noises when they’re happy. Ferrets also like to wrestle and play-fight and tend to play rough, but they learn to be careful with humans if they hurt their owners when they nip. Firmly tell them no and they will soon learn. Ferret tunnels are also a great way for them to play and travel about their living space.
Tips
Chinchillas and degus are fast becoming popular choices for pets, and it’s easy to see why. Fluffy and cute, chinchillas are sociable and fascinating, whilst degus are active and love running around. If you’re buying your first chinchilla or degu, our helpful guide can let you know which products you’ll need for your new furry friend.
Sleeping
Chinchillas are usually sociable animals, so if you’re buying two or more together they can often share a bed. However, it’s best to also buy separate beds too, so they can also enjoy time alone. Chinchilla bedding should incorporate deep material, like shredded paper, to cover the floor. They are usually very clean animals, but you should check their bedding regularly and change them once a week.
Degus like to burrow, so you’ll need plenty of semi-loose bedding to help them feel nice and cosy.
Wood shavings aren’t suitable as they may harbour parasites and fungal spores; they are also very dusty and so can give rise to breathing problems in both you and your pets. Soft shredded tissue paper, soft hay and chopped up pieces of card are suitable.
Eating
For chinchillas, good quality green hay is ideal for them to snack on 24/7, with occasional snacks of fresh fruit and vegetable, and a moderate amount of chinchilla pellets. High fat or high sugar treats like sunflower seeds or dried fruit can lead to obesity and bad teeth, so be careful to moderate these snacks.
When feeding degus, it’s a good idea to avoid fresh fruit, which can contain high levels of natural sugar. However, degus can eat green vegetables, peas, beans, dandelion and broccoli, but not cabbage which causes bloating. Make sure to wash your greens before feeding them to your degu.
Living
Chinchillas are lonely if not in a pair or group, so you should keep your chinchillas together in a large cage with shelves at multiple levels, with a minimum floor space of 1 m x 1.5 m and a minimum height of 1.3 m. As well as their beds, chinchillas need a heavy ceramic food bowl, a sipper water bottle, branches to chew on, toys, a slab of cool marble for temperature regulation and a dust bath.
Degus love to climb and will welcome the addition of some branches. Like chinchillas, degus are sociable so having more than one is definitely recommended. They also enjoy digging in soft soil so you should choose a cage that can contain this, or mimic this with lots of soft bedding. The minimum size we recommend for 2 – 4 degus is 1.3 m. high by 1 m long by 0.7 m wide (4 ft high by 3 ft long by 2 ft wide).
Travelling
Usually, you’ll only need a pet carrier when taking your furry friend to the vets, or if you’re moving house. However, you can also use a carrier to place your pet inside whilst you clean their cage, to prevent them from getting in the way. When choosing a carrier you should make sure that there is plenty of room for them to run around, with good ventilation. Place some of their bedding from their cage inside too, which will help to comfort them.
Cleaning
Chinchillas have the softest fur on earth, which is why you shouldn’t ever use water to bathe them. Instead, chinchillas prefer dust baths due to their being from dry and cool environments. A large and deep tray should be filled to a depth of about 10 cm with special, fine grade chinchilla sand, and placed in their cage once a day for around 20 minutes. This allows the chinchillas some grooming time, but leave the bath in longer and it will become soiled and they’ll refuse to use it. Once a week, tip out the old sand, clean the tray, and refresh with new sand, in order to keep the chinchilla's bathroom facilities hygienically clean.
Degus also prefer cooler temperatures, like chinchillas, but they are able to clean themselves. Make sure that their teeth are always yellow and not white, which could be an indication of vitamin A deficiency. Their fur should always look glossy, whilst wetness around their mouth could mean overgrown teeth. Give your degus something hard and durable to chew to prevent this from happening.
Playing
As chinchillas and degus are very sociable creatures, they love playing together and keeping active. Degus and chinchillas enjoy branches, both for climbing on and chewing, whilst an exercise wheel may be a good idea to keep them healthy and entertained. Snuggle tunnels are a great way for chinchillas and degus to play and hide as well as keep cosy and warm. Hard toys are ideal for preventing their teeth from overgrowing, but just make sure that there are no swallow hazards.
]]>Small and fun, gerbils, chipmunks and hamsters make for great family pets. Ideal for keeping indoors, these rodents are entertaining and cute, as well as easy to look after. If you’re getting your first gerbil, chipmunk or hamster and you’re wondering what you need to buy, our informative guide can help with the essentials.
Sleeping
When picking your bedding, avoid clumping litters and softwood shavings which will cause digestive problems, whilst the oils from pine and cedar cause respiratory disease. Bedding made from paper products is the safest choice for bedding, and shredded paper is easily available. Gerbils, chipmunks and hamsters enjoy having a place to burrow and hide.
Eating
Your pet will need a fresh supply of water every day, which you can either place in a small ceramic bowl or in a plastic drinking bottle which fastens to the side of the cage. Gerbils, chipmunks and hamsters will enjoy eating pellet food, grass hay, seed mix, vegetables and a milk bone for a treat. This also helps them to keep their teeth worn down, as rodents’ teeth are constantly growing and need something to chew on.
Living
Although typical hamster cages feature lots of plastic interlocking tubes, these can be too narrow for some hamster breeds, causing them to be uncomfortable and even dangerous. Instead, a large wire cage with plenty of room is preferred, whilst gerbils usually live in tanks with cages on top called a “gerbilarium”. However, tanks can become overheated in summer, so it’s ideal to place an ice pack in one corner. Chipmunks will happily live in a cage, but you should place plenty of branches and foliage inside for them to climb on.
Travelling
Usually, you’ll only need a pet carrier when taking your furry friend to the vets, or if you’re moving house. However, you can also use a carrier to place your pet inside whilst you clean their cage, to prevent them from getting in the way. When choosing a carrier you should make sure that there is plenty of room for them to run around, with good ventilation. Place some of their bedding from their cage inside too, which will help to comfort them.
Cleaning
These pets are usually very clean and can take care of themselves when it comes to grooming. If your gerbil, hamster or chipmunk has longer fur, you may need to brush them gently with a soft brush. However, their main healthcare need is something to gnaw on and keep their constantly-growing teeth at the right length, so make sure they have plenty of durable chew toys.
Playing
As naturally very active animals, rodents love playing with toys. Chipmunks in particularly enjoy climbing, so something as simple as a branch in their cage can keep them entertained. Hamsters of course love exercise wheels, so make sure you have one attached to the side of their cage! When buying a wheel, look for ones which are big enough for your hamster to use without bending their back, and solid plastic wheels can prevent any injuries. Gerbils love to live in groups so having more encourages them to play more easily - just make sure they are all the same gender. They also enjoy digging and burrowing, so use plenty of bedding to keep them entertained.
]]>Bedding
Avoid any bedding made from softwood, as well as cedar shavings, spruce shavings, birch shavings and pine shavings. Instead, choose paper-based cat litters, shredded paper, paper towel, non-clumping corn cob litter, or aspen shavings if you must use wood. Sometimes litter gets swallowed, and clumping litter expands in the stomach, so avoid this as you would do for kittens.
Food
As rodents, your rat or mouse will have teeth that are constantly growing and will, therefore, need something tough and durable to chew on. Toys designed for parrots are ideal for your pet to gnaw on and wear their teeth down. For food, grain mix with fresh fruit, vegetables, cereal, etc, is a great healthy option for your rat or mice. Rats and mice will even enjoy a treat of dog biscuit a couple of times a week, as it helps to keep their teeth down too.
Hutch
For your rat or mouse, you should choose either a cage or an aquarium tank. Wire cages with solid floors are best, as they prevent them from escaping. A cage designed for a ferret or a guinea pig will be the right size if the top is enclosed, as rats and mice can climb very well and they are intelligent. If you choose a fish tank, be sure the screen cover attaches securely. Also, be sure to clean it thoroughly a few times a week, as glass tanks don’t have good ventilation - ammonia build-up from your rat’s urine will make a tank a very unhealthy and smelly place in just a few days.
Carrier
To transport your mouse and rat, you’ll need a carrier. This is ideal for trips to the vets, moving house or even just to place them inside whilst you clean their cage. Your carrier should be large enough for your pet to move around in, with plenty of ventilation and some bedding at the bottom for comfort.
Grooming
Your rat or mouse will be very self-sufficient at cleaning themselves, and you’ll only need to step in to help if they are too unwell to do it themselves. Add a few drops of baby or kitten pet shampoo to a shallow basin of warm water and gently sponge-bathe them, then towel-dry them carefully and offer a few treats.
Toys
Mice and rats are very active creatures, and will, therefore, enjoy toys which encourage exercise. Toys like boxes and tubes are fun for your mouse or rat to climb in and out of, whilst exercise wheels are ideal for most rodents. If your pet does enjoy their wheel, make sure it is large enough for them to use without bending their back, and always pick a solid plastic wheel to prevent their feet or tail getting caught in it.
]]>A dog collar isn’t just an accessory for your dog, it’s an important way of keeping them identified if they become lost. With numerous different dog breeds and sizes, you may be confused about what size of collar your dog needs - a poorly-fitting collar can lead your dog to become uncomfortable if it’s too tight or slip out of it if it’s too loose. To measure your dog for a collar, follow our simple steps below.
Martingale collars are usually more suited to greyhounds and other dog breeds with small, narrow heads, as the style of the collar prevents their head from slipping out of it. The collar works by tightening when the dog pulls on it, and loosens when pressure is relieved, to keep them safe without it choking them. Martingale collars are also more comfortable than chain or choke collars, as they only go so tight and can be slipped over the dog’s head without a fastener.
To measure your dog for a Martingale Collar, use a soft tape measure to take the measurements at point A, B, and C as shown in the diagram above. The size that fits within this range helps to ensure that your collar fits perfectly. For greyhounds or other dog breeds with narrow heads, the measurement at points A and B may be the same or very similar, due to their heads are often the same size or smaller than their necks. Otherwise, these measurements will be different, so a collar that is large enough to slip over the head at point A, but not too large to fit correctly at point B, is the perfect fit for your dog.
When measuring your dog for a regular-style collar, use the tape measure to fit around your dog’s neck like how you’d want the collar to fit. You should be able to fit two fingers between the tape measure and your dog’s neck - this ensures that the collar is then tight enough for it to not slip off, but not too tight that it hurts your dog.
A popular family choice of pet, rabbits are easy to look after once you have the right knowledge. With many varieties and breeds of domestic rabbit, their needs are generally the same which make it simpler to look after your bunny. Read on for more of our rabbit advice, perfect for first-time owners.
Bedding
Similar to guinea pigs and other rodents, your rabbit will prefer bedding consisting of hay/straw and shredded paper. By using hay, it also means that they will always have something to eat too! You will need to change the bedding every day, as it will quickly get soaked with urine and rotting vegetables. It can also smell very unpleasant when it needs changing, which isn’t nice for you or your rabbit.
Food
Rabbits are herbivores and enjoy fresh hay, dry pellet rabbit food and fresh vegetables. They should have a constant supply of hay, that can be used both for eating and bedding, whilst you should avoid rhubarb and tomatoes which can cause stomach problems. Carrots are ideal as chew toys but not all rabbits actually like to eat them. Your rabbit also needs freshwater, which can either be placed in a sturdy bowl or a plastic drip bottle fastened to your rabbit’s hutch.
Hutch
Rabbits are usually different sizes depending on their breed, so you can make sure their hutch is big enough by making sure there’s enough room for them to make three or four full hops. Obviously, bigger rabbits need bigger hutches; check with your vet or shelter to see how big your rabbit will grow. Your rabbit will also need somewhere to run around, like an outdoor enclosure, which should offer protection from predators and the weather. Rabbits often enjoy exploring indoors too, so rabbit-proof a room (electric wires, ornaments, wooden furniture etc) and let them hop about inside.
Carrier
A carrier is an ideal product for transporting your rabbit to and from places. As rabbits are small creatures, you don’t want to simply hold them whilst in a vehicle; they can get spooked and wriggle, leading to injuries. The carry case should be spacious enough for them to move around, with plenty of ventilation. It’s also recommended to place some hay inside with them to comfort them and provide them with a tasty snack too.
Grooming
Rabbits are very clean creatures and often groom themselves (even cleaning their ears!). If your rabbit isn’t keeping themselves clean, they are most likely unwell and should be taken to the vets. Additionally, rabbits can swallow hairballs but cannot vomit, so the fur will simply stay in their stomachs and prevent them from eating. To stop this happening, you can brush your rabbit regularly and more often when they are moulting.
Toys
As quite curious and playful animals, rabbits enjoy playing with toys. Some rabbits enjoy pushing a ball around with their nose or paw, whilst others could simply have fun ripping up newspapers. An ideal toy is something that they can chew on, to stop their teeth from growing too much. Often, rabbits will chew the wood of their hutch in order to wear their constantly-growing teeth down, so a durable and safe-to-chew toy is the best choice for your rabbit.
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Small, cute and generally very easy to look after, guinea pigs are gentle animals and ideal pets for young children aged around 6 and above. Suitable for pet owners who may struggle to look after more demanding animals, guinea pigs don’t need much equipment and thrive on love and attention from their humans. Our guinea pig checklist can help you to find the perfect products for your piggy.
Bedding
Unlike dogs and cats, guinea pigs don’t need big cushioned beds but they do require lots of bedding consisting of hay and shredded paper for them to hide and dig under. By using hay, it also means that they will always have something to eat too! You will need to change the bedding every day, as guinea pigs are quite messy and their bedding will quickly get soaked with urine and rotting vegetables. It can also smell very unpleasant when it needs changing, which isn’t nice for you or your guinea.
Food
Guinea pigs are herbivores, so you won’t need to buy any meat for them. Instead, guinea pigs love fresh grass and hay, with dry pellet-style guinea pig food as their main meals. Fresh vegetables like carrots, broccoli and cabbage help to add healthiness to your guinea pig’s diet. As guinea pigs can be quite messy, you should avoid using a bowl for their fresh water and instead use a plastic bottle which fastens onto the mesh wire window of their hutch.
Hutch
Your guinea pig’s hutch should be spacious with enough room for them to run around and keep active. Although guineas only have small legs, they enjoy running about and are surprisingly fast. A hutch leading to an outdoor enclosure is ideal for enabling them to go outside when they want, but make sure to keep them indoors at night when cats are out. Guinea pigs can’t jump very high so their fence doesn’t need to be high, but to keep out predators it’s a good idea to make sure the top is covered too. You can buy mesh wire rolls in hardware stores, which is perfect for a DIY guinea pig run.
As well as an outdoor area, your guinea pig needs to somewhere to sleep. Most hutches have two compartments, with the main area for food and play, and a smaller windowless area for their bed. By placing more hay and bedding in this area, you can encourage your guinea to sleep in there.
To make cleaning it out easier, most hutches feature a little slot underneath the main door which enables you to simply sweep all the waste straight out. It’s a good idea to also place newspaper on the base of the hutch too, so you can just lift out the dirty bedding. Sawdust helps to absorb any urine to prevent it from going soggy and smelling unpleasantly.
Carrier
A carrier is an ideal product for transporting your guinea pig to and from places. As guinea pigs are small creatures, you don’t want to simply hold them whilst in a vehicle; they can get spooked and wriggle, leading to injuries. The carry case should be spacious enough for them to move around, with plenty of ventilation. It’s also recommended to place some hay inside with them to comfort them and provide them with a tasty snack too.
Grooming
Whilst some breeds of guinea pig - the Peruvian for example - have very long fur, most have smooth and short fur, which makes it easier to groom. A “finishing” brush, which is also ideal for cats, can be used on short-haired guinea pigs and can be used less frequently. Long-haired guinea pigs may require brushing once or twice a day and sometimes with a fine comb to prevent tangles and matting.
Guinea pigs’ toenails grow quickly; they have four nails on their front feet and three on their back which need to be trimmed regularly. You can either take your guinea pig to the vets to get their nails clipped, or you can do it at home yourself. If you do decide to do it at home, you can use regular nail clippers designed for humans. Like with other animals, don’t cut their nails too short and make sure to have treats handy to keep them happy.
Chews and Toys
All pets need toys to play with and guinea pigs are no exception. You’ll find that simple is better when it comes to guineas, so something like a ball or a tunnel can easily keep them happy and entertained. An ideal guinea pig toy is something that they can chew on, to stop their teeth from growing too much. Often, guinea pigs will chew the wood of their hutch in order to wear their constantly-growing teeth down, so a durable and safe-to-chew toy is the best choice for your guinea pig.
]]>If you’ve decided to get your first horse, it’s important that you know what equipment you’ll be needing - horses and their essentials don’t come cheap either. Horses require regular care, especially if your horse will be participating in competitions, whilst you should have adequate land and space for your horse to sleep, play and train. If you’re struggling with what products to get, our list of essentials for first time horse owners can make it easier for you to find the right equipment for your horse.
Feeding Equipment
As horses are such big animals, it’s important that they have all the right food and feeding equipment to keep them healthy. Before your horse arrives, you should have several weeks supply of hay and grain ready, as well as a good supply of freshwater. The basics of horse feeding equipment include:
Stable Maintenance
Horses are usually kept in stables, with a field or paddock for exercise. Depending on whether or not you want to enter your horse into competitions, you may also have a training area, with equipment like jumping fences. First-time horse-owners need to muck out their horse’s stable regularly in order to keep the horse happy and healthy, which is made easier by using equipment such as:
Handling and Grooming
To keep your horse in good condition, you need to focus on cleaning their coat, mane and hooves. This includes grooming essentials such as:
For handling your horse, you will need a halter and lead ropes, with leather and breakaway halters being the safest option. Specially formulated horse shampoo is also ideal if your horse has been out on a trek, whilst keeping their mane soft and matt-free.
Riding
When riding your horse, you will need the essentials such as:
To help with saddle fit, it’s best to buy a saddle after you’ve brought your horse home. Tack and saddlery items include bits, reins and head collars, whilst collars and lead ropes are ideal for training sessions.
If you’re getting your first cat, you might be wondering what you’ll need to look after your new feline friend. As your new cat gets older and more adapted, you’ll most likely buy them more and more toys, but when they’re just getting used to their new home all you need are the basic essentials.
Beds
Cats are well-known for loving a good snooze, so they deserve a good bed to enjoy their cat naps in. While cats usually sleep anywhere and everywhere, they like to curl up in a little ball, so something like a donut-shaped bed is ideal for cats. Even if it’s just a big pillow, it’s important that it’s soft and warm for the utmost kitty comfort.
Food and Water Bowls
For your cat’s meals, they need the right bowl to enjoy them. Ideally you should have one bowl for water and one for their food. Stainless steel bowls are the most suitable type, as they’re easier to clean and most feature rubber rings on the base to stop them sliding on smooth floors. Glass and ceramic bowls are also ideal, but plastic feeding bowls are harder to clean and unpleasant smells can often linger, which isn’t nice for your cat. A shallow bowl is better for cats to be able to reach inside to the food, especially if they’re still only a small kitten.
Litter Trays
Fortunately, cats tend to do their business in the same spot, which saves you time when clearing up after your cat. Your cat will need a litter tray, which can either be a simple tray or a more fancy box with a lid and door to minimise smells - this all depends on your budget. Experiment with different brands of litter too; your cat may be hesitant to use the tray with certain brands.
Scratching Posts
A must-have for any cat owner, a scratching post encourages your cat to use their claws on something over than your furniture! Cats love to and need to scratch regularly, which is why a scratching post is a good idea. When buying a post for your cat, make sure it is sturdy and durable, as your cat will mostly likely be using it a lot. Posts with rubber bases are ideal for keeping it upright whilst your cat is scratching and playing with it. The post should additionally be tall - around 25 to 30 inches - which should be at least as tall as your cat when standing on its hind legs.
Grooming
Cats’ fur differs depending on their breed so you may need slightly different combs and brushes when you’re grooming your cat. The basic brushes you will need include metal-toothed comb (careful not to get one with sharp teeth), a bristle brush, and a flea comb. If you have a longhaired cat, you may also need:
A deshedder tool might also belong on your list. Deshedders remove loose hairs before your cat’s coat becomes matted, and will make grooming considerably easier.
Toys
Cats and kittens in particular are often very playful, and will greatly appreciate a toy or two. Playtime encourages cats to exercise their natural hunting instincts and keep active and healthy, especially toys shaped like mice or ones on a string. When choosing your cat’s toys, make sure that they are safe and big enough for your cat to play with; anything smaller than a ping-pong ball poses a choking hazard.
Collar and Carrier
Although you most likely won’t be taking your cat on a walk, a collar is ideal for identifying them if they wander off or get lost. As cats have a tendency to prowl through bushes and undergrowth, a collar with a quick-release clasp is recommended for preventing your cat from getting snagged on branches and becoming trapped. An identity tag should also feature so that your cat can be returned home safely.
When taking your cat to the vets or going out in a car, you should always use a carrier. Cats can become agitated when being transported, plus it can be dangerous to place them loose in a vehicle, so a carrier can also save you from being severely scratched whilst in the car! Choose a cat carrier is sturdy and spacious with lots of ventilation for them to breathe.
]]>Although we don’t usually associate cats with the outdoors, most cats actually love going out and exploring open spaces. This differs from cat to cat; some may prefer to stay inside whilst others might have health conditions which mean they have to be indoors-cats. If you do decide to introduce your cat to the great outdoors, there are a few important things to keep in mind.
Collars and Microchipping
Before letting your cat go out, you must make sure that they either have a collar with an ID tag on - with your address and contact number on - or that they have been microchipped. Microchipping is the best way to permanently identify your cat, plus they’re quick and safe to fit so your cat won’t be aware of the implanted chip. If your cat wanders off and gets lost, they will be easily identifiable.
If you prefer to use a collar and ID tag, make sure that your contact details are correct and visible, and you can choose to put your cat’s name on there too. The best collar to use is a quick-release collar, which prevents your cat from becoming trapped if their collar gets snagged. Elasticated or loose-fitting collars can also be hazardous if they get caught on branches.
Letting Your Cat Outside
For cat-owners living near busy roads, avoid letting your cat outside around rush hour when there is more traffic. It’s also ideal to keep your cat inside at night time too, to avoid any predators. If you have a new cat or you’ve just moved into a new area with your cat, let them adjust to your home first and spread their scent around the house. This helps them to find their way back home when they do go outside, and it takes around three to four weeks.
When letting your cat out for the first time, it’s a good idea to let them out just before meal times so that they are more likely to return when you call them in for food. If they don’t come back after you call, try tapping the side of a tin of a cat food; they may recognise the noise and come back home. We advise that you only let neutered cats outdoors, so that they don’t have kittens.
Keeping Them Close To Home
It’s difficult to keep your cat confined in your garden, as they inevitably wriggle through fences or climb trees. But by creating a more cat-friendly garden, you can encourage your cat not to stray and instead stay close to the house. Provide your cat with a safe toilet area in soil, sand or gravel, with some cat litter there for encouragement. Dig it over regularly to keep it hygienic.
Whilst cats can easily climb over most fences, a fence about two metres high with close boards and a parallel hedge can encourage them to stay in the garden. Planting cat-friendly plants such as catnip, mint and cat thyme, along with long grass to provide a soft bed, makes the garden more pleasing to your cat. With plenty of hiding places in the garden, your cat will feel less threatened and prefer napping in shady spots.
Can Your Cat Go Outdoors?
Whilst some cats simply prefer to stay indoors, others need to stay inside because of health reasons. Cats with hearing and vision impairments are vulnerable to traffic and other hazards, whilst those with Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) shouldn’t go outside as they could spread the disease to other cats.
If you own an indoor cat, it’s essential to keep them occupied to prevent any health problems from arising. Toys and scratching posts can help to provide an enriching and stimulating environment, as they encourage them to practice their natural hunting instincts and channel any restless behaviour into playfulness.
Our Top Products
To keep your cat safe when they’re outdoors, collars such as our Sparkle Cat Collar are perfect for cats in the garden and beyond, thanks to the bell to alert others of your cat and the safety clasp which automatically opens to prevent your cat from getting snagged. To make your garden more alluring to your cat, scatter some Catnip Sprinkles in a corner to encourage them not to stray too far. If your cat is nervous about going outside, our Pet Calming Tablets are ideal to soothe anxious cats without causing drowsiness.
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Whether you’ve just bought a puppy for the first time or adopted an older dog, being the first time owner of your new four-legged friend can be daunting but still exciting. Dogs can take up a lot of our time and money, as well as having many needs and requirements that you might not have thought of. Nevertheless, getting your first dog is a big occasion, which requires the essential products along with a few treats of course…
Bed
Whatever kind of dog you get, they need a comfy bed to snuggle up in every night. For dogs in new homes, a bed also offers them a sense of security and safety in an otherwise unfamiliar environment. But with so many different dog beds on the market, which should you choose? We’ve narrowed down the criteria to make it easier for you.
Collars/Leads
A collar and a lead is a must for every dog, as they help to identify your dog if they run off or get lost, whilst a lead is great for walkies if your dog isn’t trained to walk to heel. Plus, they can make your pup look even cuter than normal, as they come in lots of different colours and styles. What you need usually depends on your dog but is generally narrowed down to this:
Food and Water Bowls
Generally, you’ll only need two bowls for your dog, one for their food and one for their water. Depending on the size of your dog, you can get small and large bowls which are more suited to your dog. As well as their practicality, you can also choose from a range of colours and patterns to look stylish in your home. With different materials to consider, we’ve highlighted the key points here:
Grooming Tools
Regular grooming helps to keep your dog happy and healthy, whilst creating a bond between you and your new furry friend. We have more information on how to groom your dog here, but for the basics here’s what you’ll need to brush your pup:
Parasite Protection
Dogs are particularly susceptible to fleas, ticks and worms, which can fortunately be treated much easier now. Various medicines can do the job and keep your dog healthy and happy, but it’s best to talk to your vet about which medication is best for your dog. It depends on factors such as breed and age to find treatment which works best, but your vet will be able to assess this.
Treats and Toys
Saving the best ‘til last - dog treats and toys! Buying your new dog toys will help them to settle in, be happy, and be mentally and physically active. Some toys can also promote dental health and channel excess energy from destructive behaviour patterns. There’s plenty of different toys to choose for your new dog; here are some of the favourites:
Saphi’s Favourites
We asked our brand mascot and rough collie Saphi what her essential products are and she picked out the Oversized Wool Blanket, which is perfect for those cold winter nights. She also loves the Leather Dog Collar, as it’s simple yet classy, whilst the Hungry Dog Bowl is great for her treats. For Saphi’s long coat, she prefers the Crufts Soft Grip Pin Grooming Brush with the Animology Flea & Tick Dog Shampoo if she gets any ticks in her fur. Saphi’s favourite toy ever is the Crufts Squeaky Hedgehog Toy, which she loves to carry around, make it squeak and even use as a pillow.
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Keeping your dog well-groomed is an important and essential way of ensuring your canine companion stays happy, healthy and hygienic. As well as keeping them healthy, you’re also establishing a trusting bond between you and your dog, whilst becoming more familiar with their body so that you’ll notice early on if anything is wrong with them. For dogs with long coats, or ones that shed frequently, it’s especially ideal to brush and bath them regularly, but regardless of their fur type you should be aiming to give them a thorough grooming about once a month, depending on their hair.
You will need:
Brushing
Now you know which brushes to use, you can make a start with brushing your dog’s fur. Most dogs love being brushed, but if you have a young puppy it’s important that you brush them so that they get used to being handle regularly and form trust. When it comes to brushing, you can brush your dog as regularly as you like but long-haired dogs need more frequent brushing, sometimes daily. Short-haired dogs can usually be brushed once a month. When brushing, always make sure that your brushing direction is outward from the skin and roots, and never towards the roots - similar to how you brush your own hair. If your pup is prone to tangles, use a grooming spray to help the brush glide smoothly through their hair.
Bathing
Like us, dogs need regular bathing but fortunately not as much as humans! Depending on the breed of your dog, hair length and what kind of environment they live and play in, bathing might be more or less frequent, but the standard frequency for bathing dogs is about once a month. Instead of using regular bath soap, you need to purchase specialised dog shampoo and/or conditioner, which you only really need to use if your dog has particularly dry hair. You can bathe your dog either indoors or outdoors; this usually depends on the dog’s size. Smaller dogs can be washed in the kitchen sink, a baby bath, a regular bath or the shower. If you have a larger dog, you may want to bathe them outdoors on a warm day where they can run around the get dry again. For a step by step guide to bathing, read our instructions below:
Nail Trimming
You can either take your pup to the vets to get their nails trimmed or you can do it yourself at home. If you’re opting for the DIY route, this will need to be regular, from once a week to once a month. The type of trimmer you use affects the outcome, so make sure you use sharp trimmers which are the right size for your dog. Blunt trimmers can splint the nail, causing pain and discomfort to your dog. Avoid cutting to the quick, as this can cause the nail to bleed, so keeping the nail gradually shorter helps to reduce the blood supply and therefore the risk of causing bleeding. It’s a good idea to have treats handy to ‘reward’ your dog when cutting their nails, as they will learn to be less afraid.
Saphi’s Favourites
We asked our brand mascot and rough collie Saphi what her favourite grooming products are and she picked the Crufts Soft Grip Pin Grooming Brush - perfect for her long locks - along with the Animology True Colours Shampoo to add a shine to her auburn fur markings. For her nails, she loves the Crufts Soft Grip Nail Clippers. Pawfect!
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Bringing a pet into your home can be one of the most wonderful things when the time is right. Making sure you have all bases covered first is the best way to be prepared when bringing an animal home. We’ve compiled a list of factors to consider when adopting a first or new pet whether it be furry, scaly or live in a tank!
Consider your home & family:
Tip – If you are adopting from a shelter or a charity, they will usually go through home checks before allowing you to take the animal home. They do this for a number of reasons: to make sure you don’t live near any main, busy roads or train tracks (especially important for outdoor cats), have plenty of space and access to outdoors easily and also if you have other pets and how they are around other animals (if the animal you are choosing doesn’t need to be a solo pet).
Examine your lifestyle: